We’re back for another addition of Foto Friday! I decided to tackle one of the hardest areas of photography for me (and most people, I think)–using the Flash. Putting this list together was a great reminder for me.
~My first tip is that even flash photos need light. Your flash photos will look better if you turn on the lights in the room.
~Know your flash’s range. Typically the range is between 4-10 feet. Basically, if you are closer than 4 feet or further away than 10 feet from your subject, the flash will not be effective. When you are too close, your subject will be too bright and blown out. When you are too far away, the flash will not illuminate your subject enough or at all.
~Check what’s behind your subject. If there is a reflective surface (a mirror or shiny surface), the flash will bounce back and create a hot spot (a big white blob) in your photo.
~Have you noticed dark shadows in your flash pictures? Most likely, your subject was too close to a wall or other large object. Try this: Move your subject farther away from the wall (I’ve heard 5 feet recommended, although I don’t have that much room in my house!). Another little trick I’ve found—zoom in and fill the frame with your subject so that the shadows are literally cut out of the picture.
~One more tip to help with shadows: position the camera exactly in front of your subject. The more you are positioned to the side, the more shadow there will be visible.
~If your subject wears glasses, either have them remove the glasses, or have them tilt their head slightly downward so the reflection won’t be picked up.
~If you are shooting multiple people, position them on the same plane (they should be the same distance from the camera) or one person will be more illuminated, and the will be left in the dark.
~Learn how long it takes to recharge your flash (the recycle time). Wait til your flash is ready before taking more pictures. Fresh batteries will ensure a faster recycle time.
~Use your camera’s red-eye reduction. Red eye occurs when using a flash very close to the camera lens in low light. Because the light of the flash occurs too fast for the pupil to close, much of the very bright light from the flash passes into the eye through the pupil, reflects off the fundus at the back of the eyeball, and out through the pupil. Eww! Red eyes!
When you use your camera’s built-in red-eye reduction mode, the camera sends out a series of short, low-power flashes, or a continuous piercing bright light triggering the iris to contract. You can also eliminate the effect of red eye by having your subject not look straight at the camera, but toward your shoulder. You can also increase the lighting in the room so that the subject’s pupils are more constricted.
~What do I use most to improve my indoor flash pictures? I use an external flash, pointed at the ceiling (bounce flash). It mimics the light from the sun, coming down on your subjects. Shadows fall more naturally. There’s no risk of red-eye or shadows behind your subject. Unfortunately, you need an SLR and a not-so-cheap flash unit. The good news: I’ve heard that you can create a similar effect by placing a small mirror (or CD) at a 45 degree angle in front of your flash so that it bounces off the mirror and up to the ceiling. This technique will probably take an extra hand, but it’s worth a try!
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